Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [cracklover] Dropped in the Gym (long post): Edit Log




wanderlustmd


Jun 26, 2007, 11:15 PM

Views: 16738

Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150

Re: [cracklover] Dropped in the Gym (long post)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

cracklover wrote:
Interesting story. I don't think I'd have done anything differently than you. At least, nothing that you put into print. There are a couple of things you didn't say, though. The first thing that comes to mind is this: what method did you use? Reason why I ask is this - the previous poster said: accidents happen, your hand can slip while lowering.

Well if the belayer uses two hands to lower the climber (which is what I always teach) - then no - accidents don't just happen. If for whatever reason (a kink in the rope) one hand gets knocked off the rope, you have another hand involved.

So - what did you teach?

As for whether to allow her to belay you or not, I'd say there are two things I'd be concerned with if I were you:

1 - Are you overly anxious about the belay? If this is impacting your climbing, then you need to look after yourself first. Maybe after you get your head together, you can go back to helping her.

2 - Unless and until you are both clear on what went wrong and why, I can't see how there's any guarantee that what went wrong before won't go wrong again. You don't just drop a climber when you're lowering them. Several things have to have gone wrong for that to have happened.

I've seen belayers dodge 10 ton blocks and catch a climber. I've personally gotten yanked upside down and dragged ten feet down a slab and never let any rope slide through the belay device. I'm not saying that a belayer using an ATC competently could never drop a climber, but I'm just saying that it should be a truly exceptional event, caused by many factors going wrong at once. To have it "just happen" is simply not acceptable. Rather, a combination of poor technique, poor application of that technique, and/or poor attention must have been involved.

GO

I told her to use two hands, and hung on the rope to give her an idea of what it is like to hold/lower under tension, but since we weren't able to actually rope up, and she was a little shakey on the motions when first starting out, I spent most of the time on properly taking in rope and the braking position. But I specifically remember this coming up because my friend mentioned that her guide hand only comes off the line when she lowers, since it's best to have two hands on the line.

So that definately came up during our lessons, but it was also not as emphasized as belaying/braking since she wasn't able to actually lower a climber. Moreso after she failed the test the first time for not returning to the brake position. While I didn't stand around see her test, when I had mine I was asked to lower under the tension of the guide pulling on the rope. So she must have at least once in order to passs her test. She could have forgotten afterward; I learned, use and teach the "pinch and slide" method of belaying versus the hand over hand. For this reason, the guide hand doesn't leave the climber side of the rope as often as the latter, and unless you make a point to place the hand on the brake line when lowering, it's easy not to do it.


(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Jun 26, 2007, 11:17 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by wanderlustmd () on Jun 26, 2007, 11:17 PM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?