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Re: [cracklover] Rumney Ruckus Reminiscing:
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jakedatc
Jun 27, 2007, 2:55 AM
Views: 5043
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
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Alright.. since i was there for many days in a row the easiest way for me is to go day by day.. try to follow along ;)
Thursday: Hung out with Kate in the morning and she was sad to see me leave since she wasn't able to go this year. Arrived in Rumney around 3 or so.. few cars in the parking lot.. I wandered through the meadows.. down to 5.8 crag.. back to the meadows.. found a QD laying on the ground that was missing an owner.. got up to Curly for president and Idiots deluxe where I found a nice lady Rachel to give me a belay on Curly. In hopes of doing Idiots also i ran up it about as fast as i can confidently climb 5.9 without falling.. luckily i did since when i got to the top the thunder started rolling in and we didn't want any part of what caused the noise. So.. 1 route thursday :). Got to Colleens and met up with Alan. I set up my tent and then helped him chop firewood. Then got throughly Pwned in Horseshoes. Ate some dinner.. started a fire.. chatted about the days to come until Rich arrived. We helped him set up the Taj Majhal. more fire talk.. sleep.
Friday: Hit the parking lot around 8:30-9 and was surprised to see the Trad crew in the parking lot. Rain on Cannon.. gee.. shame.. ;) No searching for partners today.. sweet. Climbed L&P and Hippos on parade with Ed, bill, matt, and Rich. Then moved over to 5.8 where i cruised up Sky Pilot and then watched Ed work his way up Arm and Hammer and bill etc play on some new .8
Between rain drops we some how made it to Below New Wave and were mostly protected to do Debbie does CPR, Son of sammy, couch potato and matt's favorite route EVAR Sixth sense. called it quits.. went to the dinner put on by C4C and the great people at the Rumney baptist church. Great food, good people, dessert like whoa. totally not preachy like i had feared it might be. thanks todd! fire.. more people rolling in.. sleep.
Saturday: Up at 8 again.. decided to tag along with Gabe and Allison for the day. We warmed up at 5.8 crag and did ashbury park, snake skin slab, bolt and run, and some thing with a crack, doodads and an easily denied balance maneuver. Then we watched Allison crank up Milktoast onsite and solid. As gabe said we also mourned the loss of "the stone" in Romancing the stone. (sidenote: it wasn't still on that rock monday.. i dunno where it went). We headed up to Main cliff from there. Decided Cereal Killer would be a great route to tick off the list. I gave it a go first and was not very efficient. So i hung once then finished the top. Gabe went and cruised it nicely and i snagged more beta. Allison gave it a go on TR while i rested up. Then I did much better the 2nd time and sent it clean. Allison went down to the car and Gabe and i made the fateful decision to try Gunboat Diplomacy. "harder if you are short" is an understatement. Took gabe some falls and a few hangs but boldly kept at it and then it was my turn.. major flailage ensued but finally topped it out and we met folks at the parking lot. They went off to make dinner and i joined Josh, tiff and others for dinner at RHP.
Sunday: Finally got the chance to rope up with Josh and Tiffany.. We headed straight up to Jimmy cliff with their friend Kathy. Tiff led Lonesome Dove with the "Laser" while josh and kathy went to do Clippity do dah. We met them over in the alcove area and i warmed up on Things I never learned, Tiff also led it in fine style. Then Josh and I decided to work more on Things As They Are Now. I gave him foot beta for the bottom, he figured out foot beta for the dead point. I pulled a muscle in my forearm on the first slap out left after a few tries i decided to not make it worse and belayed josh as he finished it with only one hang. I put up Teachers Pet for Kathy and she TR'd it. We headed down to Waimea and watched Allison get All the way clean. then tiff led it with some nice whippage. Dropped down to Triple corners and repeated Man with a hueco in his Tights with new beta i learned. SO much easier.. josh cruised it the same way even though he was tired. I walked over and talked with Mark Sprague for a little bit about his new problems in that area that i will have to get on next time. Tiffany tried TRing it but was feeling the effects from Waimea so i got to lead it again. They left for home and i went out in search of others. I got down to parking lot wall as everyone was packing up so we all left.. i picked up some food and built the fire while alan was gone. yep.. fire :)
Monday: Packed up.. It was Alan's day to get guided around after guiding many others around all weekend. So we warmed up at 5.8 crag.. did snake skin and bolt and run. Then it was time for Al to push some limits. He said all weekend he didn't know how hard he could climb.. so i gave him a quiz :) I put Sky pilot back up.. He TR'd it with one maybe two hangs that were fairly expect for the fairly sequency route. "what's next?" haha sweet he wants more. I take him to Bonsai but show him Monsters of the Id on the way up.. steep hard shit is inspiring. We got on Peer Pressure while surrounded by Team Waimea from Boston. Jer, I talked with Alexi.. he seems to be doing well. Al TR'd it and did great through the crux but the pump at the end ate him up and i think missed some feet but will get it clean soon enough. We watched Olivia metcalf cruise Social Outcast before heading over to Jimmy Cliff. I wanted one more shot on Things.. and a few quick falls later i remembered josh's foot beta and i stuck the deadpoint. but the middle crimps were caked with chalk and i was pumped and had to finish it with a hang. We decided to do Clippity for shits and giggles to end things off. going from 12a to 5.3 was pretty funny. I led both pitches since if i was going to do it i might as well do it right. Cinch worked great for belaying off the anchor too. Walked off and down and headed for home.
Great to see old faces and meet new people. We'll find a place next year.. Maybe something will pop up sooner and we can have an October one again.
Thanks for all your work Alan.
Cool Luna moth from Fri night?
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Jun 27, 2007, 3:16 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jakedatc
() on Jun 27, 2007, 3:16 AM
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