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Re: [cracklover] Dropped in the Gym (long post):
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c-money
Jun 27, 2007, 6:45 PM
Views: 9591
Registered: Apr 26, 2004
Posts: 252
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cracklover wrote: c-money wrote: Most professional instructors phased out the "pinch-and-slide" method a long time ago... Please provide some documentation for that. So far as I'm aware, the pinch-and-slide method is still considered safe, and should be taught, especially for lead belaying.
No, the pinch-anbd-slide should not be taught! While it is still considered safe as a method of belaying for the experienced, it should not be taught. There have been letters to the climbing rags from professional instructors asking "why do people still teach this way?" While I can't forward you any documentation (I don't know if any exists), this style of belaying has been largely phased out by the major North American instructional outfits (the ACMG, the AMGA (as far as I know), and the gyms with certified staff) for use with modern belay devices.
The pinch-and-slide method evolved from use with the munter-hitch, where the brake position is with the hands up. Most modern belay devices require that the brake hand is below the belay device to lock, thus other methods have evolved that are better suited for current equipment.
While the pinch-and-slide may be considered safe for those with experience (it is how I learned to belay), it is not the best method to teach. You mention one of its cons earlier:
cracklover wrote: if you use the pinch and slide method (which is what I have taught) there definitely is a transition to make between locked off and lowering, and a brand new belayer may need to be coached through this transition several times before it starts to come naturally.
Probably the largest downside of the pinch and slide with a current device is the fact that the belayers hand motions are almost all above the device in an unlocked position. Teaching a new belayer to belay in a way that keeps their hands OUT of the brake position is clearly not a good idea, something newer techniques have addressed.
(This post was edited by c-money on Jun 27, 2007, 6:47 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by c-money
() on Jun 27, 2007, 6:46 PM
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Post edited by c-money
() on Jun 27, 2007, 6:47 PM
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