Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [wanderlustmd] Retaining Tension on the Anchor during Solo Aid: Edit Log




moose_droppings


Aug 6, 2007, 12:24 AM

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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371

Re: [wanderlustmd] Retaining Tension on the Anchor during Solo Aid
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For keeping tension on the anchor for direction of anticipated pull, I've always set an opposition piece close to the anchor and cloved it tight with small cord. Things are a little different on second pitch and up. As for keeping rope slack out of the system further up, I use old shoelaces or very small cord. I've never tried rubber bands yet, but I will. Anything strong enough to produce a hard upward tug on the piece its connected to will either lift it or render it suspicious. If you fall and your piece rips and your next ones already been jerked upward hard, good chance that it will rip too. Better to have something that will break easily, or incorporate a long enough one to accommodate for stretch.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Aug 6, 2007, 12:38 AM)



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Post edited by moose_droppings () on Aug 6, 2007, 12:38 AM


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