Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [Trentw] Carabiner on Carabiner, and Triaxial Loading: Edit Log




majid_sabet


Aug 22, 2007, 5:01 AM

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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [Trentw] Carabiner on Carabiner, and Triaxial Loading
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Trentw wrote:
Thanks Trenchdigger for a well thought out reply.

In reply to:
Trentw wrote:
3. Shock loading of two biners causes them to be severely weakened (testing?)

Where'd you read this? Most slings are made of spectra and stretch very little. On top of that, carabiners and slings are just one link in the safety system. The rope is your main shock absorber. Switching out a sling with a carabiner will make virtually no difference in the shock load in a climbing situation.

I can't remember where I read this. Thats why I'm trying to confirm or deny it now. Swede brings up a point about the small surface area clashing together with biner to biner, and could be cause for concern. This does not happen with sling to biner.

This shock loading problem may not be a big issue, due to the millions of tests done every year on the cliffs with biners in hangers, and no reported failures (to my limited knowlegde).

Trent.

start from here, I will get you more

http://www.uiaa.ch/...N12275Connectors.pdf


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Aug 22, 2007, 5:02 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Aug 22, 2007, 5:02 AM


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