Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [greenketch] Carabiner on Carabiner, and Triaxial Loading: Edit Log




Trentw


Aug 23, 2007, 8:25 AM

Views: 9183

Registered: Apr 3, 2007
Posts: 31

Re: [greenketch] Carabiner on Carabiner, and Triaxial Loading
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These are all the bits of info on triaxial loading so far:

In reply to:
greenketch:
(5) There are numerous test that confirm triaxial loading. Let alone the math of force mutliplication. Look at the certified rating stamped on your biner. these are established by both manufacture and third party tests. On axis is very differant from off axis which is diferant from open gate. How would you propose loading in more than one direction and not varying from the one known strong orientation?

In reply to:
swede:
Triaxial loading: Not good at all. People not used to mechanic calculations does not really understand how bad this can be. You will find threads dealing with the american death triangle with nice drawings. Please remember that most carabiners are built to take the load along the side with no gate.


In reply to:
trenchdigger:
It really depends on the orientation. On top of that if you try to stack too many carabiners in another single carabienr, you could conceivably end up with funky loading, but I wouldn't worry too much about this.

In reply to:
rocknice2:
Yes if the two biners have loads pulling in different directions.
If pull is in the same direction it's lessened but still there, especially if top biner is asymmetrical [d-shaped]. This is because one biner is not up against the spine.
Ovals handle this example much better.

Just to keep this simple, lets fix the overall force on a biner to a set amount. This rules out force multiplication coming into the biner. If we have a force going up and down the spine of an D shaped biner, this is normal loading. If we add another force to that at a different angle, say at 45 degrees to the gate, this biner is now under triaxial loading.

I'm a bit rusty on my mechanics, and not sure of how the aluminum they use in a carabiner performs so could someone please correct, with an explanation, if I'm wrong:

This carabiner will fail, not because of the triaxial loading in particular, but because the overall forces across the minor axis of the gate exceed its safety rating.

In other words, triaxial loading (assuming the total force into the carabiner is constant) is not important, but the amount of force across the minor axis is, which occurs more so when a carabiner is triaxially loaded.

Cheers,

Trent

Edit note: Fixed editing


(This post was edited by Trentw on Aug 23, 2007, 8:29 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Trentw () on Aug 23, 2007, 8:29 AM


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