Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Re: [charley] Best sport in NC: Edit Log




ja1484


Aug 24, 2007, 12:14 PM

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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935

Re: [charley] Best sport in NC
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charley wrote:
knieveltech wrote:
ja1484 wrote:
Carnage wrote:
Where are the best sport routes in NC?

In Kentucky.

Now get a rack or get out of my state Cool
















R


knieveltech wrote:

I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport.


You damn kids these days. I swear to God.

Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun). This means bolts are found at good stances and crux moves have not a damn thing near them except your exceptional footwork.

20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED. Run out at Stone means there is no protection between belays, which is VERY common on the longer routes (Grand Funk Railroad, The Pulpit, etc). I forget the name of the route out there where the third pitch belay is a firm stance on top of a large quartz block because there are (and will be) no bolts or gear placements.

Run outs in NC start at 75 feet above your last piece. Anything shorter is just whining.

SACK UP! (and be smart - don't get on something you might regret)

Yeah, gotta love those granite domes. With all due respect to the FA's (who clearly had balls the size of cantaloupes) fuck a 70' runout. No way am I setting myself up to get cheesegratered by 140' (+ rope stretch) worth of premium NC slab. I'll stick to crack climbing.

Well, then try access crack @ stone. It's only 5.4


I don't care what any guidebook says, entrance crack is 3rd class.

Moving on from that, if you're gonna climb in Carolina, you better get good and comfy with both slabs and runouts. And thank God for local ethics. I'm tired of seeing climbing sanitized and neutered for yuppie suburbanites to have a carefree weekend. Thank God there are still places like Stone and Whiteside that have big flashing signs up saying "Don't f*ck. You better mean business before you show up here."

I love the Carolina ethic and wouldn't have it any other way. The climbing here scurrs you too much, move.

And please don't stick to one type of climbing. Specialists aren't climbers.


(This post was edited by ja1484 on Aug 24, 2007, 12:19 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ja1484 () on Aug 24, 2007, 12:18 PM
Post edited by ja1484 () on Aug 24, 2007, 12:19 PM
Post edited by ja1484 () on Aug 24, 2007, 12:19 PM


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