Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [pwscottiv] What is traditional free climbing?: Edit Log




jonoj


Oct 3, 2007, 10:01 AM

Views: 1940

Registered: Jan 4, 2002
Posts: 140

Re: [pwscottiv] What is traditional free climbing?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

pwscottiv wrote:
jonoj wrote:
How about:

Trad / Sport - refering to the route itself (dictated by how it was opened).

Gear / Sport / Toprope / Second/ Solo / Aid - refering to the climbing style of any subsequent ascent.

eg: I toproped a hard single pitch trad route
I lead an easy sport route on gear
I lead a trad route on gear
I seconded a trad route above my lead level.
I aided up a super hard sport route

My 0.2c
I don't see how the original methods used for climbing the route has much significance at all. And, for the most part (except aid-routes that are now free climbed) the same methods are used on every ascent... You don't really hear about trad routes getting bolted or vice versa.

jonoj wrote:
I lead an easy sport route on gear
I lead a trad route on gear
Hmm, now I'm really confused as to what exactly your reasoning is... How exactly is someone going to lead a sport route with cams and chocks? Do you know what a sport route is?

And how else are you supposed to lead a trad route? Are you going to pound bolts into the crack? Do you know what a trad route is?

I have absolutely no idea what a trad route is, nor sport route for matter ..... I'm from South Africa man.... far too busy running away from lions and carnivorous zebra's to bother to find out.

However... if my escape leads me to a boltless wall, and I have gear on me, I'll use gear to protect myself (provided the baboons don't rip my trinkets from my harness. If I encounter a bolted wall, I'll just use those sport climbing thingees (have forgotten the name, since my climbing manual is still tangled up in the last acacia tree I climbed to steal a rotting buck carcass from an unsuspecting leopard).

On a slightly more serious note:

You lead a sport route on gear, by utilizing whatever cracks or pockets you can find, and sticking some pro in 'em. If it is totally blank, you run it out, or aim for the nearest bolt (and lose your claim to an all gear ascent).

You lead a trad route on 'sport gear', when some idiot has bolted it subsequent to the opening ground-up gear ascent.


(This post was edited by jonoj on Oct 3, 2007, 10:03 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jonoj () on Oct 3, 2007, 10:03 AM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?