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Re: [knieveltech] Manky Anchors Picture Thread:
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harihari
Dec 8, 2007, 6:02 PM
Views: 5133
Registered: Jan 7, 2004
Posts: 182
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Weird anchors? Here's a story...
I arrived at Sandstone Quarry in Red Rocks to find a guy in his mid 40s and his girlfriend/wife, with three topropes. The routes are bolted, but sparsely-- it is technical frictiony climbing with falls bigger than normal sport routes.
I led up a route between two of their topropes and at the top of the route saw....a rope strung between all of the anchors on the crag. He had taken a rope, tied it to the leftmost anchor, run it across to the next route, put a bight in, attached to the anchor with a locker, and proceeded across the crag. He had probably 10 anchors tied together.
I got lowered and asked him what he was doing and he said "I like a solid safety margin." So I asked him if he ever led.
"Nah," he said, "I'm not into risk and runouts."
He then moved one of his three top ropes to do the route that my partner and I had just led. He proceeded to get on the route, which handed him his ass.
As my female partner proceeded to follow (no falls) the route from which he had just moved his top-rope and which I then led, he got into a screaming match with his wife/girlfriend, supposedly about the quality of her belaying him while on top-rope.
He sauntered off to take a leak and when he was away his partner came over and said "He's a little stressed--
he's going to Iraq."
"Oh yeah? Army? What does he do?" I asked.
"Computer maintenance," she said.
(This post was edited by harihari on Dec 8, 2007, 6:08 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by harihari
() on Dec 8, 2007, 6:08 PM
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