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Climbing Disciplines:
Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [stymingersfink] A "safe" way to link 2 A5 pitches with a crap belay?:
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boglins
Dec 17, 2007, 4:24 AM
Views: 7939
Registered: Nov 18, 2003
Posts: 20
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 I guess I'll type even more slowly, because you obviously don't read at all. I've reposted the scenario for you, because you are obviously too lazy to scroll up and read more of the conversation, before typing away ignorantly. I put forth a theoretical scenario and asked if that scenario would indeed be an instance of a "safe" A6. I never said that anything existed, I just asked that if my theoretical scenario existed, would it be a "safe" A6...
the scenario for you:
"Let's say two climbers are 400 feet up at a bomber belay station on an overhanging route (no ledge fall potential). The leader leads off and goes for 150 feet of crap placements (all body weight only and no bolts) and then places a hook and a (crappy) bashie for a crap belay anchor (that for our purposes will definitely not hold a fall and is not bomber). (No other placements exist) The second fixes another line to the bomber anchor and ties into the end of it. He then (delicately) seconds up to the leader to the crap belay anchor. He stays tied into the first bomber belay station, 150 feet below. The leader then leads another pitch of 150 feet of crappy (body weight only) placements and finally builds a bomber anchor (300 feet above the original bomber anchor and 150 feet above the belayer). The second then ties his rope that is attached to the lower belay station into the leader's line and rappels down to retrieve his gear below (at the first bomber anchor). He then jugs the 300 feet up both pitches to the leader. Would that be an A6? If the leader popped off near the top of the second pitch, he would rip all the pieces and rip the belayer off the belay station. But both would be stopped after the rope tied into the lower anchor caught them. The second would fall 300 feet (from 150 feet above the bomber anchor) and the leader would fall 600 feet (from nearly 300 feet above the bomber anchor). (With 300 feet of rope out above the bomber anchor, this would be a factor 2 fall)"
Further, I asked this out of ignorance, because I simply do not know the answer. For someone who posts so many quotes in his profile, sty, here is a new one for you:
"Being ignorant is not so much a shame, as being unwilling to learn."
- Ben Franklin
(This post was edited by boglins on Dec 17, 2007, 4:54 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by boglins
() on Dec 17, 2007, 4:36 AM
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Post edited by boglins
() on Dec 17, 2007, 4:39 AM
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Post edited by boglins
() on Dec 17, 2007, 4:54 AM
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