stymingersfink
Dec 17, 2007, 5:14 AM
Views: 7910
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
boglins wrote:  I guess I'll type even more slowly, because you obviously don't read at all. I've reposted the scenario for you, because you are obviously too lazy to scroll up and read more of the conversation, before typing away ignorantly. I put forth a theoretical scenario and asked if that scenario would indeed be an instance of a "safe" A6. I never said that anything existed, I just asked that if my theoretical scenario existed, would it be a "safe" A6...
It's just a dip-shit dumb-ass way to climb A5, which is fine if you're into that on a solo trip, but to subject a partner to such skull-buggery is irresponsible at least, a good way to lose a partner at best... It's simply A5, with a mid-pitch (albeit a long pitch) cluster of crap gear, involving a lot of rope to make a 300' haul, 300' lead and whatnot.
It would require the leader and the second to be on the same page, BEFORE the pitch was lead, else there's going to be a lot of head-scratching going on when the haul line fails to come taut, or the bags are let fly, dragging the leader screaming to his deserved death.
This is why pitches are limited by the length of the rope. When you get to the end, you fire in a bomb-proof anchor, whether it's 9 equalized RURPs, or two bomber bolts.
If word of your "scenario" route ever got out, the little details like you mention had damned well better be included, else know that 200' from the good belay there'll be a shiney new bomb-proof belay installed on the SA, and rightly so.
See... when such "scenarios" supposedly make it out the brain of an ego-stroking semi-suicidal being, they're done while soloing. One must first ascend to "cult-leader" status before talking followers into participating in group suicide.
OTOH...
You wanna try something stupid that won't out-n-out kill ya's? How about spending 30+ days, putting up multiple pitches on an unclimbed, nearly featureless slab, relying on un-enchanted hooks, using minimal rivits, bolting only anchors, knowing that you will fall repeatedly down a cheese-grater surface regardless of skill. Then, watch for 20+ years as the route stands without a second ascent.
Tenacity. Balls. Humility.
edit to add:
I apologize for this subsequent top-posting, but I fully believe that madbolter's post should be the last word in this thread, so I had to edit my post to include this little bit of inanity.
boglins wrote: You are absolutely right. But still, isn't the absolute definition of A6 that "doesn't exist" 2 pitches of A5 with an intermediate belay that won't hold a fall?
The absolute definition of a belay is that it is bomber.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 17, 2007, 2:06 PM)
|
