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Re: [thomasribiere] a new 9a?:
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thomasribiere
Jan 17, 2008, 8:29 PM
Views: 4203
Registered: Aug 24, 2002
Posts: 9306
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I translated the interview for you all. I wanetd to say that I wrote that Greg was "an unknown french climber" which is not true. He is just not very famous, probably because La Réunion is so far away from the mother country...
Greg Sobczak, 40 yr old soon, 25 yrs of climbing practice or so. I've tried to climb hard for a bunch of years now.
Fontaine. The story of this site... It was first a canyon in St Leu [île de la Réunion, Indian Ocean], equiped by Pascal Colin. Then, the first extreme route was "Kartié Kaniar" ['hood of the extreme heat'], discovered and equiped by Laurent Derny (?), 10 years or more now.
I've been equiping lines there for 7 years now, next to this route. The 1rst striking route was this 8c, "Kartié Kaniar". Which was modified into "Extravagance". "Extravagance" is so starting left of "KK", avoiding the manufactured holds. It then goes on KK and ends on its own line.
Personnally, I opened 50 routes there, which means 90% of the hard lines of St Leu. This project is about 7 year old. Working "KK" was a preliminaries, as its a pure line. Next to it, "Extravagance" is thea ddition, the mix of everything that is the most interesting in this large overhanging wall. It's 4 "boulders" of 15 moves each, links of 10-15 moves, one after another, with micro rests in between.
I sent it in July of this year [2007]. Regarding the tries I did in this route, if I count the preliminary work in "KK" and in "Degré Plus" [he doesn't speak of this route before], then for this very route, it's almost 70 tries. The specific work to realise this route was to decompose the moves correctly and to get on it as often as possible.
Climbing there is pleasant from the beginning til the end. It 'unwinds' fine - well! the moves are big, wide - but no need for a magnifying glass to see the holds! Working on it is always very very pleasant, it's very gymnastic. It's greatly overhanging : there's almost 10 meters [30 ft] of overhang, maybe a little bit more, and the rote is 25 m [80 ft] long.
Then Greg Sobczak climbs the route and it's 60 moves or so in 6'30".
I hope you appreciated the translation.
I edited "Kartié Kaniar" which could be translated by either "scorcher 'hood" or "lazy 'hood", the french slang word has many meanings...
I just read in an old Grimper magazine, that there would only be a couple of routes with manufactured holds.
(This post was edited by thomasribiere on Jan 17, 2008, 9:50 PM)
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Post edited by thomasribiere
() on Jan 17, 2008, 9:50 PM
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