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Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Re: [kyote321] Running back to catch a fall?:
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chilli
Jan 31, 2008, 9:03 PM
Views: 5658
Registered: Nov 11, 2007
Posts: 401
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i don't know why, but i'm getting kind of frustrated by everyone continuing to say that it's a sin to run backwards when belaying to catch a fall on a sport route. there ARE SOME conditions under which (stone mountain example) you will want to run away to pull slack from the system fast. note that this is NOT in those overhanging or even vertical routes (which most sport climbing is) because those will cause a nasty swing into the wall if your belayer makes a dash for it ( -mental image).
those are the kinds of routes everyone thinks of when they think sport, but there are other bolted routes (thus technically making them "sport") in which the conditions mandate running away (mind you not back-peddling, but a solid run) from the rock to keep your partner from tumbling too far (once again stone mountain PERFECT example).
ok i'm getting repetative and a little redundant at this point.
edit - addition: it's important to keep in mind that the previous mention (from another poster) of redirection with some kind of anchor capable of handling the outward pull is important if doing a running belay (ESP on a trad route). though not as dire on sport climbs of stone mountain slab.
(This post was edited by chilli on Jan 31, 2008, 9:08 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by chilli
() on Jan 31, 2008, 9:06 PM
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Post edited by chilli
() on Jan 31, 2008, 9:07 PM
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Post edited by chilli
() on Jan 31, 2008, 9:08 PM
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