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Re: [lithiummetalman] How do you rack up?:
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tomcat
Feb 10, 2008, 1:28 PM
Views: 4185
Registered: Sep 15, 2006
Posts: 325
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In the eighties,I carried three Friends and some wired stoppers.It all fit on a sling on the left.
Enter middle age.Now have 7 Camalots mosta the time,four Aliens,two C3's and some wires.Couple years ago I got one of those BD big wall slings that go on both sides,cut all the doodads off it,and love it.Doesn't move around much,no choking action like crossed slings.It's comfortable and has a wee mesh pocket on my back that will take a topo,gu,Tikka ,Prussic or tp.Started racking my Camalots on OP 5.0's and like that.
Lot of climbs here have a mix of gear and bolts,so generally carry some(4-6) Petzl Spirit draws on my left front harness.Alpine draws are useful,carry those on my right and going back to 11/16 Nylon.Right rear loops get spare biners,mostly Heliums in summer,5.0's in winter.Left rear gets a locker with ATC and one other locker.Over the shoulders go over left shoulder.
In vinter I like those ice clippers.My Petzl harness takes two on the right,and they get the BD screws.I rack my Helix's on my left on individual biners with the wire gate facing down and out.I like to keep screws down there as they are farther from critical internal organs.Pretty much using just the Spirit draws for ice,racked on a piece of knotted perlon on my left.I like being able to flip them into my lap.Perlon sling is a runner or V-thread.Got a few longer nylon slings and stash them in my jacket pocket.
One thing I found super useful of late is some oldskool knotted nylon slings.Almost every trip features sling upgrade,clean-up,replacement or new anchor.These are great for this or getting off a multipitch alpine situation.I tie them a little longer in winter,and go through two or three a weekend usually.
Wired stoppers get installed on three or four wire gate ovals,about four each.In finger crack sizes I sometimes have a biner with a common sized stopper as the largest on that biner,and the smallest of the next one up(follow that?).I don't carry any larger stoppers anymore,or hexes,Tricams only in winter since I got a couple C3's.Aliens live in pairs.Black/Blue,Green/Yellow.
Climb on two 8.6's so skip the cordelette.Don't toprope more than a few times a season.
(This post was edited by tomcat on Feb 10, 2008, 2:59 PM)
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Post edited by tomcat
() on Feb 10, 2008, 2:59 PM
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