Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [stymingersfink] What’s the longest lead fall you have taken?: Edit Log




shoo


Feb 18, 2008, 5:18 AM

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Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501

Re: [stymingersfink] What’s the longest lead fall you have taken?
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The outside corner at Quincy Quarry near Boston. I was teaching some new guys for most of the day and couldn't do any real climbing. I decided I was going to do at least one good climb that day, grabbed my trad gear and headed to one of the few few tradable routes in the quarry.

At around 30 ft I place a cam and look down and see to my dismay that the nut I had placed directly below had popped, resulting in one piece between me and the ground. Instead of backing it up, I decide to push on. I reach the one super manky bolt on the route, clip it, take a sigh of relief, and back it up. Crisis abated.

I get a little cocky and start charging through the last third of the climb. For those that know the route, the last 15 feet are exactly where it is a poor decision to start getting cocky. I place a perfect cam (black metolius powercam) and charge on. 5 feet from the top, 10 feet from my last cam, in a layback position, I botch a foot placement and send myself grunting into the abyss. I estimate around 20-25 feet of falling

Immediately afterwards I climb back up deciding to pay attention to my feet. Deciding that it was really my lack of attention, I don't bother backing up the cam I had fallen on, although I easily could have. I get to the same position, pop my foot the exact same way, and take the exact same fall. By this time there was a group watching the climb. I get a round of applause for the second fall.

Finally got that sucker on the third try.

My favorite falls are the ones that give you just enough time to think something is wrong. I was being belayed by a partner who, at my request, belayed me very loosely. Took a fall and had a split second where I was wondering why I hadn't been caught yet. I stopped about 7 feet from the ground.


(This post was edited by shoo on Feb 18, 2008, 5:22 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by shoo () on Feb 18, 2008, 5:22 AM


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