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Re: [stymingersfink] Need Documentation for Safe Belay Techinques.:
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acorneau
Apr 16, 2008, 5:52 PM
Views: 788
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
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stymingersfink wrote: I like to call it the Brake Hand Shuffle technique. Documentation? Got none. Endorsements? Every leader I've ever arrested a fall for (100%). 
I've mostly heard it called the B-U-S method (for Break Under, Slide) and it was one of the styles covered in AMGA courses. I think it's a very good technique to use for beginners when using an ATC-style belay device.
A similar method taught in many gyms (using Grigri's) is the P-S-S (pull, slide, slide) method. Both hands are on the break side, dominant hand closest to the device. Pull the rope through the device, slide your break hand close to the device, slide the non-break hand to match. By keeping both hands on the break side you keep the belayers from criss-crossing hands/ropes and ending up with their hands on the non-break side of the rope. Again, this method is for beginners.
(edited for grammar)
(This post was edited by acorneau on Apr 16, 2008, 7:48 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by acorneau
() on Apr 16, 2008, 5:53 PM
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Post edited by acorneau
() on Apr 16, 2008, 7:48 PM
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