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Re: [zoltank] TR: Lowering someone to the masterpoint:
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colatownkid
Jun 23, 2008, 4:10 PM
Views: 10586
Registered: Nov 27, 2007
Posts: 512
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to answer your question: i suppose you could tie your static line into the anchor with a butterfly, but for some reason that just seems sketchy to me.
one option would be to use a bowline on one end of the rope, instead of a bight in the middle. this would give you the ability to belay a distance half the total length of your static line. of course, what you're effectively doing is setting up a single-line rappel where you control the brake strand.
you might consider this instead. use your static line to build yourself an anchor. rig the anchor back from the edge so everyone has a safe amount of standing room. extend the anchor to the edge and throw your dynamic rope into the new masterpoint. the standing end of the static line can then be used as a "tether"--just tie a stopper and toss it over the edge. put a grigri/cinch on it and have the climber "rappel" the static line to the masterpoint. then put the climber puts her atc on the dynamic line and rappels.
if there's only one grigri to go around, you could even leave it clipped into the tether as someone is rappelling and pull it back up for the next person to use.
if there's no grigri's to go around, you could "rappel" with an atc and back it up with a prussik or similar above the atc. when you reach the masterpoint over the edge you can slowly let the prussik take the weight and switch the atc over to the dynamic line for the rappel.
does that make sense?
also, what are you rigging your anchor with that you can tie a static line into it easier than just tying into the masterpoint? are you using two static lines?
edited to add: sorry, i'm just envisioning some sort of cordelette rig in which case there probably isn't more than few feet between any given component piece and the masterpoint, in which case you could clip the component or the masterpoint without having to tie a butterfly in the middle of your rigging.
for that matter, are you building this anchor on gear, natural pro, or bolts?
(This post was edited by colatownkid on Jun 23, 2008, 4:12 PM)
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Post edited by colatownkid
() on Jun 23, 2008, 4:12 PM
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