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Re: [ladyscarlett] question about catching high FF lead falls:
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theclaw
Feb 25, 2009, 6:41 AM
Views: 7702
Registered: Aug 10, 2008
Posts: 10
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To respond to your first question of belay from you harness or directly from the anchor in a lead belay situation belaying directly from the anchor can be very dangerous. If the leader successfully prevented a FF2 by placing one single piece capable of holding falls above the anchor the direction the rope will pull your belay device is up. If you anchor is not designed for an upward direction of pull in addition to a downward one the force of just about any lead fall will rip your anchor straight out of the wall and both of you will plummet to the ground. Of course, it is fairly easy to build an anchor to withstand upward pulls but if you are new I'd say better be safe than sorry and always lead belay of your harness.
In terms of this whole changing brake position for FF2, I don't have any experience catching them, but it sounds reasonable. However, some things about FF2:
1. don't take them
2. they are easy to prevent; fall factor is reduced by climbing high and placing protection (FF=distance fallen/amount of rope between climber and belayer). even clipping a piece of your anchor before leaving it will reduce you fall factor and prevent any need to change your brake position. clipping this anchor piece does not mean you should then run out the climb for the first 30 feet, place another piece ASAP. the difference between FF1.9 and FF2 barely exists.
3. just because a leader falls below the belay it is not necessarily a FF2. the leader must fall directly onto the belayer, no protection what-so-ever
4. just don't take them. the force generated has the ability to rip some of the most bomb-proof anchors straight out of the wall. once again sending both of you plummeting towards the ground
(This post was edited by theclaw on Feb 25, 2009, 6:45 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by theclaw
() on Feb 25, 2009, 6:45 AM
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