Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [asellers98] Analysis of fatal accident in Joshua Tree 3/15/09: Edit Log




notapplicable


Apr 7, 2009, 2:16 AM

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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771

Re: [asellers98] Analysis of fatal accident in Joshua Tree 3/15/09
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asellers98 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
asellers98 wrote:
(NOT PART OF THE ACCIDENT-->)?Using the wrong device for the same lowering situation. A regular ATC, instead of an ATC guide/reverso/etc in this situation had you lost your stance and fell over the edge, rendering the lockoff unlikely. So even if there was only 10 feet of slack, you may have lost control of the belay.

etc.

A regular (non-autolocking) tube style device is not the "wrong device" for lowering a climber.

If you have the possibility of losing control, I would say it is. It is not about being cool, it is about being safe, and switching out a regular ATC, to a cinch, grigri, etc. is not a hassle.

I'm trying to be nice and I'm sure your efforts are well intended but you do not have the proper base of knowledge or experience to be giving advice in such a public arena. Please stop.

The fact that you just changed your "recommended" device for lowering a climber from a reverso style device to a GriGri style mechanical assist device, after (just this afternoon) needing to have it explained to you why the reverso (in autolocking mode) is very much the wrong selection if your setting out just to lower a climber, especially off the harness, highlights this. You also neglected to observe the fact that if someone is using a reverso style device in autolocking mode, they would in all likelyhood be belaying off the anchor, removing any real chance of them being pulled off the ledge.


Edited to add: I'm not going to edit my post but I do appologise for my tone, I realize it's not helpful. If you would like to discuss this further, I will be happy to start a thread in the "technique and training" forum". I do not feel that this is the proper place for it though.


(This post was edited by notapplicable on Apr 7, 2009, 2:31 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by notapplicable () on Apr 7, 2009, 2:31 AM


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