altelis wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
altelis wrote:
scottydo wrote:
If you're solo aiding then you should probably be setting your anchor for an upward pull (with a directional piece). If you do that properly then you shouldn't have to worry about your anchor biners crossloading.
how do you figure? gravity must work diferently for you than for me.....even if you have the ANCHOR tensioned with a directional piece so that the soft-goods aspect won't shift in the event of a fall, and even with keeping up with your rebelays, there will constantly be changes in the amount of tension in the lead line. This will range from relatively tight to slack. When things are tight you are good, but during the times of slack the anchor biner attaching the lead rope WILL succumb to gravity. No way around that- no matter how well you set your directional, etc....because the only thing keeping the anchor biner oriented for the upward pull direction is the lead line itself
My tie in to the anchor is with an 8 on a bight to a biner that is taught between a multidirectional anchor. There is no room for slack on that biner, there is on occasion slack on the lead line but this does not effect the biner held tight between the opposed pieces in my anchor, so there is no worry about crossloading.
To the OP, yes my biner at the anchor is steel. When I'm lead soloing or aid soloing I'm usually miles from anyone and prefer the extra bit of safety. You can use two, but I prefer the one of steel.
I'm not trying to pick a fight here, I'm just having a really hard time figuring out what your anchor looks like.
If its like this:
Then doesn't this mean when you take a lead fall the
directional would take all the force, right? 'Cause thats the only piece keeping the biner, and therefore the lead line, from moving upward...(biner is green, lead line is blue....)
How do you prevent this? When I aid-solo I create a multi-directional anchor and make sure to use rebelays....
