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Re: [photoguy190] New Rock Empire RE Flex:
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austinnokc
Jul 14, 2009, 7:43 AM
Views: 8741
Registered: May 15, 2009
Posts: 23
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This thread has really helped me a lot. I am about to purchase a cam set for my first active protection pieces. So Far I have only purchased Black Diamond Equipment except for a few other pieces of necessary gear. Gri Gri, Metolious PAS, & Slings. Shops for Climbing equipment are limited in Oklahoma City I think that there is only 4 or so. They are all very brand specific too.
Through my research I have found that BD is very good and time tested equipment, however it is very pricey. It is company that has very loyal climber following. Many other companies sell and manufacture good quality life saving gear.
Many climbers I have talked to in Oklahoma USA have stated, "don't buy the cheap crap and etc..." siting all sorts of reasons. I find it is kinda like buying a car (Used to sell cars for a living) People form opinions based on price and brand recognition. When there is always a cheaper and "similar" quality item available.
That being said I am going to purchase RE Durangos or Robots to start my lead rack.
Citing problems of walking, quality, workmanship and etc.. aside. Walking can be cured by adding length to the sling. Quality (They hold UIAA and CE certifications) They will save your life as long as you place them properly. Poor workmanship all things break down with use and abuse so for a beginner buying BD Camalots to break them down with poor use/placements and etc would be stupid. Also it doesn't matter how expensive or reputable the gear is if it is placed wrong or in a less than perfect placement it could or will fail.
Rock Climbing is a dangerous sport we all accept that when we are 100 foot up on a crag. Especially when we rap/climb onto our built anchors for the first time
Heck for the price on rockempire.com you can buy 2 sets of 8 cams = 16 cam units for the same price as 10 BD C4 Cams.
So here is my plan to start my cams with RE Durangos or Robots, (Can't Decide Ustem or Single) then slowly gain some BD C4s for extras and backups.
Since nubies seem to loose gear on the crags I don't think I would feel to bad loosing some RE for 35 bucks to replace the unit vs. 65ish for BD.
All in all value to quality grade is at least a A- for the RE cams so new to old climbers should purchase RE gear.
EDIT: 07/17/2009 - After going to the UIAA website I found that rock empire was not an approved manufacture of frictional anchors. http://www.theuiaa.org/...ls_manufacturers.php
I still think that they will make good cams to start a rack with.
(This post was edited by austinnokc on Jul 17, 2009, 10:26 AM)
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Post edited by austinnokc
() on Jul 17, 2009, 10:26 AM
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