Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [jamatt] Ethics question: Edit Log




forkliftdaddy


Oct 18, 2009, 2:00 AM

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Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408

Re: [jamatt] Ethics question
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Which three?

Yes, every one of those crags has some top anchors. Not all are bolts. Not all route have top anchors.

Ship Rock has some, but there are plenty of routes for which you have to top out and walk to one of the communal rap stations.

Moore's has several, but then again, many routes do not.

Linville has a world of bolted anchors on Table Rock and Hawksbill, but venture into the NC Wall or Shortoff and you'd better know how to make an anchor and how to find your way down.

Rumbling has some as well, but if you do Finishing School, Zydeco, Southern Boys, or Pumping in Rhythm and get to the top expecting to find two bolts you'll be sorely disappointed. You'll be sending down for some cordage.

And RE: Pilot, I like that place well enough. There are some routes that I think are outstanding. Hawaii Five-O and Body Surfin, for example, are great routes. Fun movement, good gear, solid rock. And there are plenty of fun, but slightly chossy classics. Overhanging Hangover, Gentle Ben, Crackin Up, and Devil in the White House come to mind. Then there are the fun choss heaps like Arms Control, the Three Bears, and Black Rain. My point was that you can climb a lifetime on TR or over bolts, or even over gear without ever learning to set an anchor at the top of the cliff.

Hell, the same is true at the New -- now that they've retrofit top-rope anchors on so many of the gear routes -- and, for that matter, Rumbling and Table Rock.


(This post was edited by forkliftdaddy on Oct 18, 2009, 3:27 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by forkliftdaddy () on Oct 18, 2009, 3:27 AM


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