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Shortnening an anchor arm?:
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brokesomeribs
Nov 12, 2009, 3:37 AM
Views: 5643
Registered: Jul 20, 2009
Posts: 361
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Forgive me if this is more appropriate to the Trad Forum. I wasn't sure which of the two forums was the better choice, and seeing as I believe the SNR is quite a bit higher here, thus my choice made.
For most of my climbing career, my favored multi-pitch anchor has been the good old cordalette. I've played around with both the equallette and Paul Raphaelson's ACR (which I was surprised to like an awful lot) but generally just stick with the good old cordalette tied out of standard 7mm nylon cord (Bluewater, to be specific).
Now as a Gunks climber, 90% of my gear anchors are 3 pieces of pro in an ultra-bomber horizontal. Every now and then I need to shorten my cordalette (to adjust the height for a proper auto-block, to avoid a sharp edge, etc). Up till now, I've just been putting in an overhand on a bight to take up some of the extra length, but this is often a real PITA to untie if repeatedly weighted, so I was thinking:
Would it be acceptable to shorten one of the arms of a cordalette with two clove hitches? i.e. tie a CH in each side of the "arm" coming up from the power point.
Also, while we're on the topic of multi-pitch anchors...
I've often wondered, as a measure to prevent a FF2 fall onto the belayer's ATC, can the leader clip his first draw into a higher point of the anchor before he starts climbing? I was thinking clip it either into (or around) the strongest leg of the cordalette above the powerpoint. Could this potentially compromise that arm of the anchor? Or compromise the entire anchor? But seeing as a fall onto the belayer's ATC (i.e. a full FF2 fall) is just about the worst possible thing in climbing, does this measure of preventing a FF2 offset the potentially added stress to the anchor?
Thoughts on either scenario wold be greatly appreciated. If my descriptions were unclear, I can probably take some pictures of a mock setup.
Thanks!
EDIT: for clarity
(This post was edited by brokesomeribs on Nov 12, 2009, 6:13 AM)
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