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Re: [kalcario] Grades are only guidelines:
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USnavy
Nov 20, 2009, 5:40 AM
Views: 10120
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
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kalcario wrote: A 150' 12d with no rests would be 5.14 or something.
Maybe if every move was 5.12d but otherwise not. My current project is rated 5.12d. It’s about 75 - 80 feet long and it offers a rest about 8 feet up and another about 60 feet up. Other than that there are no reasonable rests. The first 20 feet is sustained mid 5.12 with a few legitimate 5.12d moves on ultra small and highly technical crimps. The next 40 feet is sustained 10+ to 11- on slightly overhanging sloapers. Then the final 15 feet is the second crux, 5.11c. The best climbers we have are working this route and ALL of them get completely destroyed trying it. By the time we hit the final 11c crux we are practically about to pass out from exhaustion and extreme pump. But despite the fact that you go from 5.12+ moves to 40 more feet of 5.11 over sloping and slightly overhanging moves, the route is still rated 5.12d and I agree with its rating. There are three people that have redpointed it. One rates it 5.12c/d, one rates it 5.12d, the last rated it 5.13a, and I think its 5.12d.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 20, 2009, 5:46 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Nov 20, 2009, 5:41 AM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Nov 20, 2009, 5:41 AM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Nov 20, 2009, 5:43 AM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Nov 20, 2009, 5:45 AM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Nov 20, 2009, 5:46 AM
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