Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [evanwish] Gear Placement Pictures: Edit Log




billcoe_


Nov 24, 2009, 4:46 PM

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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Re: [evanwish] Gear Placement Pictures
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evanwish wrote:
why not just use a regular sling that's more versatile? I'm pretty sure this is the "rabbit runner," but you'd have to have that pre-set up for the route... and racking?

Not quite Evan, in that it's sewn into this config, whereas a Rabbit runner is not, and this is essentially sewn supertape. The huge advantage is being able to grab it and wrap a knob quickly with one hand. Then once its snug, because there is some tightness at the loop there, it stays snug an where you placed it. As far as racking them, on this climb, I just stuffed them into a Fish Beef Bag which was clipped onto my gear loop. I'm telling you, it's the total shizz!

Here's a bro placement same climb I wouldn't have wanted to trust my dog tied up to. I looped the horn right in front of my face with a full length runner within a few seconds of this pic being taken.



You can see that spot better in this overview pic we took next trip up there- right where the sub pinnacle runs out there. There's my rap sling on top of the Old Witches hair bun. PS, good piece? LOL!


My dreams had me placing 3 perfect big bros up that gap. In reality, I got one shit bro in. The other boat anchors as seen in this pic were ditched on the nearest knob and left. Same climb same day, the pics look different.


edited to add:
Damn glad to see the knobs to hitch up higher with my Fish magic tie offs right there. Of the 20 some plus first ascents I did this year, this was the most memorable and it is the only one I still shake a tad in fear when I remember it. It is quite the feeling to do a ground up free climb, solo, with natural gear on a uber remote pinnacle which few have ever seen and which has never been summited, especially as you do not know if it can be done without killing yourself. There is no cell service from any carrier and a mistake, error or just a random knob popping off at the wrong time on ya would be problematic if not deadly for sure.


(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Nov 24, 2009, 4:56 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billcoe_ () on Nov 24, 2009, 4:52 PM
Post edited by billcoe_ () on Nov 24, 2009, 4:56 PM


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