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Accident and Incident Analysis:
Re: [Trixie] Accident on Mt. Lemmon:
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jt512
Dec 13, 2009, 2:06 AM
Views: 10731
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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Trixie wrote: jt512 wrote: Trixie wrote: Thanks for that explanation. You're right, 2 feet of slack removed is better than nothing. I really hope I never end up in that situation, it does seem to be a lose/lose one. Trixie  Please wake up and start taking this sport seriously. If you climb long enough you almost certainly will be in a situation (more than once) when your actions as a belayer will (or won't) keep your partner from decking. If don't think you can handle that coolly and competently, find another sport. Jay The situation I'm talking about is this specific one where the climber was approx 15' above his first and only piece of pro and had enough rope out that he would deck. Oh, and the fact that the belayer was unhappy with the situation, but the climber continued anyway.
On most sport climbs you belay, you'll be in a situation where your partner will be in decking range when clipping the second bolt. There is absolutely nothing unusual about this situation; you'll be in it routinely. If the only reason your partner is in decking range is because he's 15 feet above his last pro, you should be happy, because at least then you'll have time to do something useful (provided you don't fuck up and uselessly grab the wrong side of the rope).
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Dec 13, 2009, 2:12 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jt512
() on Dec 13, 2009, 2:12 AM
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