Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [scm007] Clarification: Edit Log




dugl33


Jan 25, 2010, 7:09 PM

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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
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Re: [scm007] Clarification
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scm007 wrote:
Cool thanks for the reply, in practice what I have is ~60 foot section of 1 inch webbing that I use for top-roping when I need to sling a tree that is a ways away from the lip. However it sure would be nice if I had a way to use this section to do whatever lip extension work I needed to for a TR.

I was faced with having a 2 bolt anchor and had a lip about 10 feet down. Simply pulling the strands down and tying a figure 8 or overhand would leave me with 30 feet too much slack, so I ask what is a better system? I'm not really understanding #2 and #1 isn't practical.

What I was thinking of doing was just essentially building two 10 foot slings out of this 60 footer by just grabbing any two random 10 feet sections on here and tying a figure 8 on a bight, creating 10 foot loops. But I have never loaded a figure 8 like that so I wasn't sure. My gut says that this is safe for TR'ing but I've never seen anybody do it like that.

EDIT: Yes I could untie the water knot before each use and retie the sling to the length I need, but I was hoping there was a better way.

Well, this is ok, however, use overhand knots (with nylon webbing), not figure eights. The structure of an overhand knot is similar to a water knot. With the loading you're going to get, this will be similar to an EDK on webbing. Making two independent 10' loops would ease my mind 100% regarding strength and redundancy. Adjust lengths so loads are statically equalized on the bolts. Good luck.

Edit to add, one more time: EDK style loading on figure eights, whether tied in rope or webbing, has been shown to fail at low levels of loading. Figure eights loaded this way roll indefinitely. I think knot nerds call it "capsizing". This is the reason behind the concern and the recommendation of overhands, not figure eights. Water knot, overhand knot, or double fishermans... use one of those.


(This post was edited by dugl33 on Jan 25, 2010, 7:25 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by dugl33 () on Jan 25, 2010, 7:12 PM
Post edited by dugl33 () on Jan 25, 2010, 7:25 PM


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