Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [alexfromithaca] The Anticam: Edit Log




mattmaddaloni


May 13, 2010, 6:13 AM

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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 26

Re: [alexfromithaca] The Anticam
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Today I redpointed the Guillotine Flake!!!

I had to climb 15 feet out horizontally from the last Anticam to where the flake became thick enough to hold a regular cam. Pumped out with new route wall grit under my feet, it was terrifying to get that cam in. There isn't a single foot hold until near the very end. Fifteen feet out from those Anticams put everything into perspective. I wasn't scared of that flake anymore, I finally had confidence in the anitcams, everything came together. I clipped that cam and knew I had it in the bag... 30 feet of underclinging later I just made it to the no hands rest and it was over. One year of dreaming, designing, training, preparation and stress. And it's done. WHAT AN ADVENTURE!!!!



and ya, you can actually watch the video tomorrow at http://www.arcteryx.com Bryan Smith with http://reelwaterproduction.com is busting out the editing tonight!


(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 13, 2010, 6:33 AM)
Attachments: matt-on-flake.jpg (86.9 KB)



Edit Log:
Post edited by mattmaddaloni () on May 13, 2010, 6:14 AM
Post edited by mattmaddaloni () on May 13, 2010, 6:33 AM


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