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Re: [jonathan.gaillard] solo top rope weight on soloaid:
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milesenoell
Jun 1, 2010, 9:00 PM
Views: 13533
Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
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jonathan.gaillard wrote: hehe I was wondering the same thing dugl33 :D Sadly cornstateclimber its Virginia ! So before I head out with my new fangled device. What is the easiest way to transition to rappel mid route on something overhanging, just hanging on the ascender? perhaps the ascender on a short sling just long enough to be able to be at chest height, held up by chest harness, leaving enough room below to stick in the atc or grigri for lowering? Would there be enough room? Any other suggestions?
the problem isn't in having room to put the ATC in (you can pull as much slack in as you want so there's always plenty of room for the ATC), it's getting the ascender unwieghted and off the rope. For that you will want a prussik or other comparable item to get your weight onto the rope ABOVE your ascender. It can be also be done in other ways, but a prussik is generally a safe way to do things. (If you just put the ATC in and release the cam, the ascender jams against the ATC). The other way I have done it (warning: I am about to describe a dangerous method that should not be used) is to put the ATC in, wrap a leg a couple times, grab the rope and batman up a foot, and remove the locking biner that connects me to the ascender (leaving it hanging on the rope by the cam), then lower my weight onto the ATC. Just grab the ascender off the rope and rap down.
*Just to be clear, I only described this method because it is a way to back off a route without any extra gear. Clipping a knotted bight would be a good way to increase the safety margin. That said, a prussik is a superior option.
(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jun 2, 2010, 12:30 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by milesenoell
() on Jun 2, 2010, 12:22 AM
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Post edited by milesenoell
() on Jun 2, 2010, 12:23 AM
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Post edited by milesenoell
() on Jun 2, 2010, 12:27 AM
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Post edited by milesenoell
() on Jun 2, 2010, 12:28 AM
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Post edited by milesenoell
() on Jun 2, 2010, 12:30 AM
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