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Re: [ptlong] Pulled off belay stance:
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spikeddem
Jun 17, 2010, 10:55 PM
Views: 1947
Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
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ptlong wrote: spikeddem wrote: Perhaps I'm picturing Rgold's method incorrectly, but what is gained by doing rgold's method instead of doing what I've listed below? If you read rgold's post you would have come across his reason. You may disagree with him of course but that's the rationale.
All it says it that it incorporates a shock-absorbing connection to the anchor and that it is easier to catch a factor 2 fall. The first is not any different than the setup that I'm advocating. Considering that belaying directly off an 8 with a munter off the anchor is more comfortable (RGold points this out when he compares it to belaying off the anchor using an auto(b)locking device), and that I'm only talking about belaying a second, I see no reason to use this method. Especially when considering the necessary belay escape involved in rescuing a second, and that the belayer must keep himself or herself in a position that keeps the line both taut and in a straight line between the climber and the anchor.
In reply to: rgold wrote: The load is entirely on the anchor, but you keep the superior take-in speed, slack control, ease of effort, lowering ability, and adaptability to varied anchor positions of the harness belay. To this I would also add that it means there is no extra transition in going from belaying the second to belaying the leader, as would be necessary if you belayed the second directly off the anchor itself.
All that's necessary is for the climber to change his munter into a clove hitch (or to avoid a potential factor one fall, clove into another biner left on the anchor's shelf. And they're on belay before they've even got the gear leftover from your harness.
(This post was edited by spikeddem on Jun 17, 2010, 11:12 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by spikeddem
() on Jun 17, 2010, 10:56 PM
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Post edited by spikeddem
() on Jun 17, 2010, 11:12 PM
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