Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [Lbrombach] Clip the rope BEFORE the hanger?: Edit Log




kennoyce


Aug 19, 2010, 8:23 AM

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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
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Re: [Lbrombach] Clip the rope BEFORE the hanger?
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Lbrombach wrote:
OK, imagine for a moment that my IQ is actually average or above. I know it's hard, but bear with me.

There is no shuffling or confusion as to which end I'm holding. At least once that I've done it, I clipped the rope before ever taking the draw off my loop. The situation I've used it was more like I'm in a relatively ok position, but reaching the bolt requires lateral movement that starts putting me off balance or in a
tough spot. Now, reaching to to clip the bolt I could pull off no problem, but the mere fact that I'm holding the biner means that I have a couple inches extra reach for the sake of just getting it clipped in. Now in order to get the rope into the the other end, I have to reach even further with the weight of the rope not helping any as it's at the very far end of the lever and it all may be too far lest I lose my grip on the wall. Don't make me draw diagrams and use big words like "hypotenuse" or "moment arm."

Thank you MS1 for being useful. In the circumstance I recall most vividly, the issue was really one of being able to reach the hanging end of the draw once placed. I've done it a couple other times really just experimenting.

WOW, you know what "hypotenuse" and "moment arm" mean, you must have made it through third grade geometry and science. I now bow down to your incredibly high IQ.

Seriously though, while there may be one clip in a million where your method is easier, I've never encountered one. Generally speaking, if you clip the draw to the rope first it will make it much harder to pull the rope up to the bolt because now you're fighting the friction between the rope and the biner. I do know this to be harder not due to experience with clipping this way, but from experience moving a cam to a higher position in a crack.

If there is a route somewhere where your method is easier then go for it, just realize that it's not the norm for a reason.

edit for cheesetit


(This post was edited by kennoyce on Aug 19, 2010, 9:05 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by kennoyce () on Aug 19, 2010, 9:05 AM


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