Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [patto] totem cams now available?: Edit Log




mapeze


Sep 2, 2010, 4:50 PM

Views: 6318

Registered: Jan 14, 2007
Posts: 5

Re: [patto] totem cams now available?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

The comment about holding power of cams in a flare is not correct at all. It's true for all regular cams but not for Totem Cams.
For Totem Cams the equivalent cam angle (we would use simply "cam angle" for regular cams) is about 13 degrees in a parallel crack, and it grows until 20.35 degrees when the flare is 40.7 degrees.
I have uploaded a paper to our web site showing some mathematics of regular cams and Totem Cams in parallel and flared cracks.
http://www.totemcams.com/...es/IndarEbazpena.pdf


(This post was edited by mapeze on Sep 2, 2010, 4:52 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by mapeze () on Sep 2, 2010, 4:52 PM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?