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My tr soloing question:
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kifoa
Sep 20, 2010, 7:12 AM
Views: 3227
Registered: Aug 13, 2010
Posts: 16
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I want to climb peaks in my local area such as the picture1 and picture2. the crags on the mountain are about 200~300ft high and have crack.Now I go for collecting usefull knowledge and work on top rope climb training in several wild crag.
The question 1,who can tell the book name and the author in the<Mountaineering:The Freedom of the Hill> Appendix :Extended Reading?I have a non-english version without the appendix .The question 2,I also want get <the self-coached cilmber><climbing anchors>,they'll arrive later,any other good book recommend?
I have no partner some time so have to tr soloing.I draw a picture3 showing my idea.
1.self belay anchor
I have two 20ft 16mm tubular webing.unluck in a chance there only one small stone can use(,ohers are big and 20ft not enough for suround.IN picture 4.i only set two webing on one small stone seprated by clove hutch.The question 3, can i use the rope make anchor replace webing and connect two webing one surround the big stone for redundancy?i also draw picture 5. I know the rope is heavy compared to webing and shorting the lenghth can be used in climbing, and any other shortcomings such as the rope is not anti-abrasion?you know some time webing not enough,you won't like waste a day no climbing then coming back.
2.self belay
when go down the slope,I have a reverso3 connerct the rappel ring of the harness first ,and a clove hitch tie on a pear lock connect the harness.i find the clove hitch need adjust several steps.the question 4,I want to use reverso3 first and prusik second,just like rappel.,i tie prsusik by beal 6mm cord,it seemed some hard,and i test it will not lock some time,my test have problem?Do the prusik not lock every time?any comments?
3.top rope anchor setup
There have hanger already.I tie the knots and clip the locker beafore hand.when i arrive the edge i clip the locker to the hanger,it looks easy. question 5.the setup is ok?i know in-line figure 8 and it seemed when the anchor lost efficacy the rope will extended,any comments?
4.one line or two line
I find two rope in silence partner manual and some otherplace,Question 6,if i sure there no sharp edge,one line is OK?i hike about 2 hours to the crag and i take care of the weight.
5. tr soloing knots
I want climb useing clove hitch or figure eight every 10ft clip in.I have 2 big pear locker in my waist loop,i clip right,left,right.left...when ge on the top i self belay on the anchor and retie the knots,then rappel,another climbing.i think clove hitch is easy tie by one hand when climbing,and retie easy also,a clove hitch have 2 rope clip in the locker,when the line is very long,the locker will have no enough space.Question 7,i use figure eightevery 10 ft and tie clove hitch when fall possible ,i think it also work well in down-climbing ,any comments?
I heard 2 mini-traxion good work,do it work well,Question 8,do it work well in down-climbing too?
I also have a grigri,but i search the forum it don't work well.
(This post was edited by kifoa on Sep 20, 2010, 7:21 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by kifoa
() on Sep 20, 2010, 7:17 AM
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Post edited by kifoa
() on Sep 20, 2010, 7:20 AM
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Post edited by kifoa
() on Sep 20, 2010, 7:21 AM
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