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Re: [kenr] switching tie-in ends versus re-stacking or:
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shimanilami
Dec 8, 2010, 12:14 AM
Views: 8037
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
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As others have said, untying isn't going to save much time and is potentially unsafe. And whether you build your anchor with the rope or a cordalette is personal preference. Neither is faster. (Although, IMO, a cordalette is easier.)
The real time saver is to stack the rope so that you don't have to mess with it before launching off on the next pitch. Restacking is a waste of time and a CF in the making. Some key points:
- First, you have to know who is leading the next pitch. If you get this wrong, you're screwed.
- Next, you have to stack it accordingly. If you're swapping leads, this should be simple (although I've seen it CF'd in a hundred different ways.) If you're leading in blocks, you can try the pancake stack (which requires a ledge), but IMO the best way is to drape the line through a sling with increasing lengths of "loop" with each pass. If you do this right, there will be no need to flip anything over, and there will be no opportunity for CF's to form. This takes practice, but it works.
(This post was edited by shimanilami on Dec 8, 2010, 12:17 AM)
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Post edited by shimanilami
() on Dec 8, 2010, 12:16 AM
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Post edited by shimanilami
() on Dec 8, 2010, 12:17 AM
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