LostinMaine
Jan 17, 2011, 8:47 PM
Views: 3874
Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539
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AdventureAng wrote: Thanks for all of the suggestions everybody. Just to clarify, my trad skills are only up to like a 5.8, so I was hoping for some easy trad climbs that allow you to put up top ropes of up to 10s and 11's right in the same area. I'm not familiar with the Adirondacks at all, so are there walk-arounds too?
If I were you...
Get to Chapel Pond and set up camp. Start with Jewels and Gems wall, which is easily within walking distance - low angled cracks like North Country Club Crack (5.6), Diamond and Coal (5.6) and In the Rough (maybe 5.7ish?) would be a good introduction. Drop a TR on Pearl Necklace, Coal Miner, and shaky Spider. I would end a day climbing Shipton's Voyage (54 to 5.5) and Tilman's Arete (5.7) overlooking Chapel Pond at dusk.
Spend a day at the Beer Walls (many climbs here), but the best introduction to 5.9 in the Park is by leading up Labatt-Ami (5.7) and then TRing Frosted Mug (5.9 with sketchy lower section). If you can't handle the pump on this route, be wary of anything at Spider's Web.
If the Beer Walls go well for you, get to Spider's Web for Slim Pickins , Esthesia, and Mr. Roger's Neighborhood. If you are up for a more cruiser day, get on Chapel Pond slabs for easy climbing to get some air under your feet.
For your grade, the Creature wall is made for you. Pefrect rock, excellent gear, lots of options for trad and TRing. You'll love it.
If you're up for a bit of a drive, rent a canoe and climb Little Finger on Roger's Rock. It's unforgettable for a 5.5 finger crack.
(This post was edited by LostinMaine on Jan 17, 2011, 8:48 PM)
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