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Climbing Disciplines:
Slacklining:
Re: [qwert] Forces:
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USnavy
Jan 24, 2011, 7:27 AM
Views: 3469
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
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qwert wrote: [majid] [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=5364;[/image] [/majid] qwert
For starters, that bolt was installed incorrectly. I hate when unqualified people install these bolts. Doesn’t anyone read the tutorial on Fixe's website?! You have to chisel out a channel for the bottom of those bolts to sit in. Doing so will increase their shear strength. Also, placing a bolt 2" from the edge of the rock is pretty stupid. Three words, critical edge distance. The critical edge distance of a 3/8" x 3.5" bolt like the one pictured above is about 5" in 4 kPSI concrete. A quick refrence check with Simpson shows that placing a 3/8” x 3.5” bolt 2” from the edge of normal weigh concrete (probably 4kPSI) gives a load reduction adjustment factor of only .37. In other worlds, if the ultimate mechanical breaking strength of a 3/8” bolt is expressed as x, than placing that bolt 2” from the edge of your material would give you a shear pullout strength of .37x, which is pretty damn low.
Now granted that rock probably has a compressive strength of 10 kPSI, but that’s not the point, it’s not wise to place bolts that close to the edge of your material, especially when you don’t even install them correctly in the first place.
This is how you install those bolts: http://www.fixeusa.com/guide_14a-gluein.htm
(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 24, 2011, 7:45 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Jan 24, 2011, 7:30 AM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Jan 24, 2011, 7:42 AM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Jan 24, 2011, 7:45 AM
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