Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [Bats] No knots!: Edit Log




sspssp


Jan 27, 2011, 7:11 PM

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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731

Re: [Bats] No knots!
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I don't tie knot in the end, although I would certainly never pull a rope back up just to untie them.

I can see why some say "depends". Is it windy and daylight or is it calm and at night. However, if I was going to start tying them, I would switch to "always". Only occasionally tying a knot sounds, to me anyway, like a recipe to forget to untie it before pulling the rope.

In situations where I want to take more care (night, rain, unfamaliar etc.), my partner and I have a different approach. After threading the rope, the rope is tied off to the anchor so the first one down can rap a single line while the other person uses the other strand to belay from the top. Makes rope management easier on the person going first (only has to untangle one strand and no monkeying around to have to hang) and no possibility of rapping off the end. The second can't rap off the ends since both strands will be with the other climber and attached to the lower anchor.

Doesn't save you from rapping off the end on a sunny day, but neither does the "depends" posters above.

I have had too many bad experiences with knots in the ends of the rope.


(This post was edited by sspssp on Jan 27, 2011, 7:13 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sspssp () on Jan 27, 2011, 7:13 PM


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