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Accident and Incident Analysis:
Re: [Vegasclimber10] Red Rock rope solo accident with injuries - 2/14/11:
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healyje
Feb 19, 2011, 1:09 AM
Views: 14710
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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Vegasclimber10 wrote: Please keep in mind that you are a very strong proponent of the device. You have a fixed opinion and therefore you may not be open to issues regarding the device...
You misunderstand - I am in no way 'a strong proponent of the device'; I am only a proponent of the device in the context of free lead roped-soloing as a better alternative to grigris (and only in my opinion, only for me), less big and clunky than the SP, and more reliable than the Soloist (again, only in my opinion, only for me). Beyond that I think it's heavy, with an awkward handle pull, and too wide of an attachment point.
But what I am a strong and ardent proponent of is understanding and accepting the physical and mechanical reality of any device you leave the ground with. Forget what it was 'made' for; forget what the instructions say; forget what people 'claim' about it - nothing matters once you leave the ground except that you properly understand the advantages, disadvantages, and operating limits of the device in any situation you might find yourself in with it. Nothing else matters, it is what it is - utilize the advantages of it in that context and avoid the consequences of its disadvantages - deal or don't. The rest is irrelevant.
Vegasclimber10 wrote: ...as you seem to feel very strongly about the safety of the device.
What 'I feel very strongly about' is that nothing is 'safe' in climbing - especially devices. Attaching the very notion of 'safety' or 'safeness' to a device is as misguided as it is common in climbing today. In fact I just wrote the editors of 'Climbing' decrying their use of the phrase 'safer' describing belay devices in the cover title of an article on the topic. Devices are not safe or dangerous, only our use and misuse of them is safe or unsafe, advised or ill-advised.
Take the grigri2 which is being deemed 'safer' by the various media - all that means is that a new generation of climbers will be dropping each other with a 'safer' device. Great progress no matter how you look at it. Bottomline is 'safety' in climbing is only an attribute of, and conveyed by, knowledge, experience, skill, and judgment - not devices.
You and I can form any opinion of the device we want but that won't alter what the device 'is' when you clip into it. The only message of consequence is deal with it as it is and misgauge that reality at your peril.
(This post was edited by healyje on Feb 19, 2011, 11:47 AM)
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Post edited by healyje
() on Feb 19, 2011, 1:16 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Feb 19, 2011, 1:17 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Feb 19, 2011, 1:20 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Feb 19, 2011, 1:26 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Feb 19, 2011, 1:28 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Feb 19, 2011, 5:37 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Feb 19, 2011, 11:47 AM
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