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Re: [guangzhou] Trad climbing, what's in a name?:
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healyje
May 4, 2011, 7:25 AM
Views: 8472
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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guangzhou wrote: Stainless is the norm today, titanium sees a fair share of use too. Knowing what we know today about bolts in climbing, I think anyone who isn't using at least Stainless steel bolts shouldn't be bolting routes.
You're right, stainless should be the norm today, but I'm guessing way less than half the bolts going in are.
guangzhou wrote: Glad you you like the word spad, I just don't buy into it like you do. Sport climbing and trad climbing is compartmentalized enough for me.
I bet it is quite conveniently is.
guangzhou wrote: Whether I climb a crack with no bolts on my first go, my second, or my 100th is irrelevant is irrelevant when it comes to the term trad or sport. I am trad climbing. It only matter in the term red-point or onsigth.
You keep saying this for some puzzling reason - onsighting or not per se has NOTHING whatsoever to do with trad climbing and redpointing is a completely irrelevant term in a trad context. Bottom line? If you're dogging on gear you simply aren't trad climbing. You may want to believe you are, you may delude yourself into believing you are, but you aren't.
guangzhou wrote: As for ascents of hard free routes, you really should read the history a bit more. Might not be true at your one particular climbing area, but in the big picture aid were were free to make hard free climbs.
In the Valley, sure, but that's a recent phenomena. In Eldo, in the Gunks, in North Carolina, hell, you name it, the free routes going up all over in the 70's were in large new routes, not old aid lines, and were never aided by the FAs.
guangzhou wrote: Personally, I like that sport climbing tactics are being used across the board, it will push the trad climbing world even further in term of hard climbing.
Not really, not from what I see of climbers crossing over. Dogging or not, the vast majority of cross-overs climb 'trad' way below their sport grade. A small percentage of world class folks cross over with aplomb, but most folks aren't climbing trad harder in the cross over.
guangzhou wrote: Actually, I normally just go climbing. I rarely say I am going sport climbing, or I am going trad climbing.
And you shouldn't given the meager distinction between what you do on bolts and gear.
Call it what you will, but it just isn't trad climbing.
(This post was edited by healyje on May 4, 2011, 7:33 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by healyje
() on May 4, 2011, 7:26 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on May 4, 2011, 7:29 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on May 4, 2011, 7:33 AM
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