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Re: [guangzhou] Trad climbing, what's in a name?:
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jacques
May 12, 2011, 1:25 PM
Views: 6545
Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
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guangzhou wrote: fork" wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: This is wrong. Not on the sense that sport climbing can't help with trad skills, it's also easier to be confident 15 feet above you last piece on a 5.12 when you can handle 5.13 moves consistently. . .
Top roping is hard on overhanging, so they place bolt and practice the move with bolt. is it sport or top roping? it is a kind of training. When you did a run out of twenty feet in trad, it is a sport cliff of 40 feet. it is completey useless to discuss a continuity sport to trad. In France, the distance between the bolt of 5.11 climber is 20 feet...and the crux is some time at the end (take it or leave it). In fact, they bring people from a sport ethic to a trad ethic to scare the climber. In a dangerous environment a stopper is always less safe than a bolt and if you always fall on bolt, you must be scary. The ethic is to lower the confidence of the climber so they can not trad climb.
Training is a question of strenght, stretching, proprioseption capacity and, for trad, psychological capacity to sustain the stress of a fall without be sure at 100% of your pro. The most important to know is what is your weakness. Maybe your stopper is not as good as you think. A discussion on how to become a 5.12 to 5.13 climber is useless as very few people can train/climb more than 25 hours per week.
(This post was edited by jacques on May 12, 2011, 4:17 PM)
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Post edited by jacques
() on May 12, 2011, 4:17 PM
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