Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [sungam] whats ur gap- (between sport level and trad level): Edit Log




wmfork


Jun 1, 2011, 8:49 PM

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Registered: Jan 4, 2006
Posts: 348

Re: [sungam] whats ur gap- (between sport level and trad level)
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sungam wrote:
I feared as much.
Is that the route that there was a vid of, in the cave?
I'm not sure if there's a vid of the 13+, there was one of Black Seal he graded at 13b.

And that brings the point often missed. At least in the grade levels of mere mortals, sport routes and gear routes tend to differ in style greatly. Angry was a good crack climber, so he can jam his way up a 13a crack, but he used to flail on similarly overhung 13a with face holds. Doesn't mean if somebody bolted WTOK, he would've had a harder time on it.

But if you start looking at the movements of 5.14s (Justin's route not withstanding, as it probably requires pretty specialized techniques not all strong sport climbers can learn quickly), whether it's bolted or accepts gear, you gotta be strong, period.

(This post was edited by wmfork on Jun 1, 2011, 8:56 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by wmfork () on Jun 1, 2011, 8:55 PM
Post edited by wmfork () on Jun 1, 2011, 8:56 PM


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