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Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [potreroed] Most serious aid climb that you've done?:
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thenose
Aug 20, 2011, 4:37 AM
Views: 4768
Registered: Feb 20, 2009
Posts: 47
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potreroed wrote: My most serious aid climb was in an old quarry in Wisconsin. It was mid-winter and I was freezing and I had all the wrong gear and I finally had to rap off of a single piton wedged end-wise in a wide crack.
HA! Thats nothing. Awhile back I was doing a solo FA on El Cap when I got off route. I had to build an anchor from a single copperhead as I dropped my bolt kit and all my other heads. All I could find in the area was a narrow bottoming, flaring seam. I had to leap frog two sawed off RURPs up the crack for 130 feet with no other pro. Finally the crack ended and I had to do another 45 feet of runout hooking with only a single RURP between be and a 400 foot factor two fall on a single copperhead. Finally the hook options ended and I had to free climb to the next belay. The move off the hook involved a dyno from my aiders to a bottoming mono pocket covered in moss on the underside of a roof an a V12+ mantle over the roof with .13d slab climbing after that. I was runout a solid 250 feet before I hit the next belay. My 80m was just barely long enough. Good times.
(This post was edited by thenose on Aug 20, 2011, 4:41 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by thenose
() on Aug 20, 2011, 4:41 AM
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