Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [JimTitt] Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Accident: Edit Log

Partner rrrADAM

Oct 18, 2011, 4:07 AM

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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553

Re: [JimTitt] Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Accident
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JimTitt wrote:
One of the virtues of the rethreaded bowline is you will have checked the first knot when you thread back through again.
Ummm... We can say the same thing about the fig 8 rethread, so this isn't a valid argument, especially given that a rethread fig 8 yields a neat symmetrical knot that is easily checked, even by a n00b, where a rethread bowline doesn't yield a knot with any symmetry.

In reply to:
If you´re arriving at the first piece and you haven´t got anything to clip your harness into the gear then by definition a buddy check was rather irrelevant and needs to be expanded to cover a lot more than just the tie-in!
I don't understand your answer here as it relates to your 'best practice' of checking your knot when you reach down to grap the rope to clip in to the first piece en route. If you, doing your best practice, find that your knot is bad, what are you going to clip into while UP (meaning there is now a potential fall DOWN associated with a bad knot) on a route? That was the question I asked.

Again... I agree that we need to know what we are doing, and we don't RELY on buddy-checks, but rather it is a form of redundancy that we can utilize when available, and it seems absurd, to me, to proactively discourage this, and to posit that a "better" way is to check your knot while up on a route.

(This post was edited by rrrADAM on Oct 18, 2011, 5:24 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rrrADAM () on Oct 18, 2011, 5:23 AM
Post edited by rrrADAM () on Oct 18, 2011, 5:24 AM

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