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Re: [rtsteed] How do I prevent from getting pumped/panicy:
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billl7
Oct 18, 2011, 12:54 PM
Views: 10256
Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890
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rtsteed wrote: When on a run out or you know that the placements below you are sketch, how you to keep yourself calm and collected? I tend to get all sketched out easily when things go down the drain. Is it as easy as just remembering to breath and take a second to collect myself?
Maybe things you already know ...
I think the first helpful thing is to realize that not all routes are for a given individual at a given point in time. Seems obvious; at the same time, it's not always clear where the line lies.
Second is to become comfortable and experienced with climbing up above gear to explore and downclimbing to get back to a resting point. This takes developing some competence with assessment of the upcoming terrain and practice with downclimbing.
Third is to be willing to leave gear to bail.
The clearer it is to you that you have the above options, the less sketched you will feel. Granted, this may not be the "rock warrier" way as am not super familiar with that book. Mostly, it's what I interpret from my experience which includes a come back from a badly broken ankle due to a lead fall.
Bill L
(This post was edited by billl7 on Oct 18, 2011, 12:55 PM)
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Post edited by billl7
() on Oct 18, 2011, 12:55 PM
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