Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Indoor Gyms: Strict Gym Rules?: Edit Log




McMonk


Jan 1, 2012, 11:11 PM

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Registered: Aug 27, 2011
Posts: 28

Strict Gym Rules?
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It's a long post, and I understand if you guys don't want to read the whole thing. For those who do, thank you for the time.

Most of my climbing career has been spent at one gym, and one crag. So I figured that I would broaden my horizons and check out another gym by me. Now before I go into this story let me just state:
- I have been *seriously* climbing for 2 years.
- I have experience setting up outdoor TR anchors
- I have lead climbing experience of a solid 5.7 and decent 5.8/9
- I have worked at a Boy Scout camp as climbing staff
- I'm young, only 16 years old. :: Edit: Included to account for possible "This kid isn't capable of tying his own shoes" attitude. As noticed below from marc.

SO I'm not completely clueless.

I went to the gym and everything started out fine and dandy, then they asked that we (my partner and I) meet with a staff member for a belay test. I suspect it should be a snap. They don't allow you to use your own hardware here, as they have a ground anchor (daisy chain), screw gate carabiner, and BD ATC at each TR station. Okay I tell myself, no big deal. I begin my test, and pass with flying colors. As I'm doing what the staff member asks, I talk with him about his climbing experience (just to make small talk). He is new climber, with no outdoor, or lead experience. The final task was to tie in as a climber. Easy peasy right? I tie in, and I have the "fist" of tail after my figure eight, but not quite enough to tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He says "We require the backup knot here." I quickly correct it and tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He then said "We require that you use a double fisherman's knot here." I sigh, and re-tie it with a double fisherman's. Then he says "Well that's correct, but I could critique the figure of eight if I wanted to." I look back at my knot, did I really mess it up? No. It was correct. I asked him what was wrong with it and he grabs the knot, flips a section over another, making a cosmetic change. Then he asked me "What are THE commands?" I say:
Pre-Climb:
On belay? :: Belay is on
Permission to climb :: Climb away
Climbing ::
For Decent:
"I use:"
Aqui (Here) - To belayer, stating climber is ready to come down
Listo (Ready)- To climber, stating belayer is ready for the climber to come down

I use Spanish for lowering because it helps avoid confusion with other climbers. He said no. That I need to use "Take" and "I got you."

So those were the rules at the gym. What do you guys think? Strict? Average?

-MM


(This post was edited by McMonk on Jan 2, 2012, 12:03 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by McMonk () on Jan 1, 2012, 11:12 PM
Post edited by McMonk () on Jan 1, 2012, 11:13 PM
Post edited by McMonk () on Jan 1, 2012, 11:14 PM
Post edited by McMonk () on Jan 2, 2012, 12:03 AM
Post edited by McMonk () on Jan 2, 2012, 12:03 AM


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