Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Indoor Gyms: Re: [flesh] Top 5 things you like about your gym?: Edit Log




Traches


Feb 1, 2012, 2:57 PM

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Registered: Jan 26, 2012
Posts: 83

Re: [flesh] Top 5 things you like about your gym?
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Have a good difficulty spread, lots of interesting features, and lots of lead climbing (not just top roping!) Try not to have any big difficulty jumps, for awhile my gym was bad because the jump from 5.10 to 5.11 was HUGE, and it caused me to plateau.

Reset routes often, have several people setting routes, and don't go overboard with your safety rules or have stupid ones (banned ATCs or GriGris, nitpicky belay cert tests). Keep a vigilant eye on your equipment, especially holds. Nothing is worse than a spinning hold on your project route. (Edit-- Oh yeah! Tape too. It sucks when you're fighting with a bouldering problem for an hour, and then someone wanders by and says "Hey bro, that white hold's in.")

If you're going to make it mandatory to use an anchor for top rope belaying, don't put the anchors right next to the wall. To be honest, I'm more of a fan of the big pipe at the top with a wrap around it than just having a set of chains- it makes lowering easier and you don't get pulled off the ground when someone falls. (It's a convenience thing, not a difficulty thing.)

I'm sure someone will disagree, but for a beginner top-rope belaying a grigri is safer. Dropping someone with an ATC requires no action or the wrong action, while doing the same with a grigri requires them to actively disengage the cam. The first is far more likely in a panic situation.

Try to keep things in stock in your gear shop-- My gym runs out of chalk and won't get any more in for 2 weeks sometimes. Stupid!

That's all I can think of, other than the obvious (Bigger and taller is better, nice bathrooms, etc).


(This post was edited by Traches on Feb 1, 2012, 2:59 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Traches () on Feb 1, 2012, 2:59 PM


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