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Climbing Disciplines:
Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [dindolino32] Aiding in the gym? Any suggestions:
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petsfed
Feb 19, 2012, 8:15 PM
Views: 6643
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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Without pounding pins, you've got:
For top roping:
Flare Thee Well - this might actually be a good lead too once you're really solid on your placements because its thin and flared. Could be A2/A3 although I've only ever got on it for free climbing. You can walk to the top to rig the anchor on bolts.
Remote Control - hard thin fingers, but with bolted anchors you can walk to.
Sugar Crack - good free climb, but its an awkward position. Bonus, there's some edges down low you could practice your hooking on.
Le Petit Arbre - you'll have to free the first pitch to set-up the toprope (on bolts), but its 5.6, and classic.
For leading:
Friday the 13th - continuous crack, good for learning the leading process, BUT its incredibly popular, so get on it on a rainy weekday. Its under a roof, so the rain won't be an issue.
Ghost Dance, New Mutant - both hard, flared finger cracks. I'm told Ghost Dance opens in the back, so be careful.
June Bride - starts super thin, gradually widens to fingers on a slab.
Edward Humid Hands - once you get the rope up, you can try to free it on top rope. Hard to find.
Arch Stanton - Sure its freed only on bolts, but at 11+, and the bolts are too far apart to simply aid between. Was considered A4 when it was freed in the 1980s. This thing is a solar oven, so go on a cold, cloudy day. Also, a cheat-stick may be useful for the final bolt ladder. The bolts (and modern camming devices) definitely bring this thing down to a safer, easier grade.
There are loads more, those are just the ones that I've looked at/aided/attempted to aid that spring immediately to mind.
(This post was edited by petsfed on Feb 19, 2012, 8:20 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by petsfed
() on Feb 19, 2012, 8:18 PM
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Post edited by petsfed
() on Feb 19, 2012, 8:20 PM
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