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Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [healyje] link cam broken when fallen on : Edit Log




USnavy


Apr 28, 2012, 12:16 PM

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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
Re: [healyje] link cam broken when fallen on
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healyje wrote:
tradmanclimbs wrote:
Its always easy to monday moring QB someone on the internet. no matter what a photo looks like it is not the same as being there in person.

Lived there, know the rock, and climb basalt every day I go out here. I know what I'm looking at in the pictures.
Just eight hours ago you said "Wait, let me stop you right there - having lived in hawaii I can testify there are no rocks there of any kind. You shouldn't be trying to use cams or bolts, you should be hammering in snargs and warthogs." Anyway, basalt crags are extremely serial in nature, no two basalt crags are ever the same. Just within 100 feet of each other I can find basalt that is so soft I can crush it in my hand and I can find basalt that is stronger than the strongest concrete known to man. It all depends on the crag. I will try to post some pics of the actual placements. That will remove all of the guess work and confirm what I have been trying to say all along; a solid looking placement is not guaranteed to actually hold a fall, it can pull if the rock is too smooth or if it is flaky. But that has already been proved by Metolius.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 28, 2012, 12:38 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 28, 2012, 12:17 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 28, 2012, 12:22 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 28, 2012, 12:24 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 28, 2012, 12:24 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 28, 2012, 12:38 PM


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