billcoe_
May 2, 2012, 8:16 PM
Views: 15518
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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Here's something I learned from the same Jim Titt who posted right up thread. I've put in quite a few rap anchors on new routes, replace a few old ones too. I try and use Stainless steel, as high quality as possible. I usually do Fixe Stainless chain, but at the cliff below, I put in 20 rap stations on various multipitch routes we put up and only used the Stainless Fixe Sport Hangers like in the pics.
I started out with the rappel point bolts too far apart, as seen in this photo. The bolts were all 3/8" x 6-1/2" long stainless wedge anchors.
Not touching
Touching
@ 2009 I read a post by Jim Titt on RC.com where he pointed out that they had tested those Fixe sport hangers, and if the 2 pieces of metal are touching, there is significantly less wear. Somehow they theorized that if they don't touch, they oscillate and cause more wear. So we started moving them close enough together so that they touched, but as wide as otherwise possible. Naturally, there may be some kinds of rock with banding, fragility or cracking issues occur where you want the 2 rap points to be far, far apart. That was not the case at this cliff.
That was something new I learned. Thanks Jim!!
(This post was edited by billcoe_ on May 2, 2012, 8:17 PM)
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