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Accident and Incident Analysis:
Re: [patto] accident ... possibly belayer error:
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jt512
Jul 11, 2012, 7:35 PM
Views: 10719
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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patto wrote: jt512 wrote: Right. And lowering hand over hand uses static friction, whereas letting the rope slide through your hands uses dynamic friction. Therefore, hand-to-rope friction is a greater percentage of the force used to control the rope while lowering using the hand-over-hand method vs letting rope slide through the device. That was my point, and you have supplied the reason why it is true. Jay Your logic does not compute Jay. If the rope is sliding through your hand then you need to grip it harder to get the same braking force than if it isn't sliding through your hand.
And the harder you grip the rope, the greater the friction between the rope and your hand. You keep proving my point, but failing to realize it.
In reply to: Static lowering clearly gives better control.
Define "control." Over most of the range of speeds that you'd want to lower someone, letting the rope slip through your hands gives better control over speed than lowering hand over hand. Letting the rope slip through your hands also gives better control of the smoothness (constancy of speed) than lowering hand over hand does. So, I'm not sure what aspect of "control" you think is greater by lowering hand over hand.
In reply to: (Not that I'm advocating that it is by any means necessary if you have sufficient friction in the device. Personally I normally just let rope slide through my hands.)
As you should, since you have more control over smoothness and speed.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jul 11, 2012, 7:57 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jt512
() on Jul 11, 2012, 7:57 PM
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